Due to Covid we couldn’t travel to the Alps this winter, so we had to resort to what we have in Croatia. Skiing conditions lasted quite long and were surprisingly fantastic comparing to previous winters.
Croatia is definitely not on anyone’s skiing radar, and we have only one single peak over 1800 m. Another problem is that the highest peaks don’t offer good skiing conditions because snow gets blown away by strong wind. So, we are left with very short weather windows and a few locations where we can ski powder. This winter we managed to do surprising number of tours in regions of Gorski kotar and Lika.
Begovo Razdolje is at 1078 m the highest village in Croatia and since touring starts straight from the village, it is the easiest starting point. Snow can be plentyfull and skiing is not steep. The only downside is that the runs are short, 150 meters maximum, which means a lot of transitions if you want to fulfill the day. In the other hand, the village is very picturesque, definitely one of the most charming in Croatia. For those wishing more, there are other options such as Bjelolasica and skiing from its peak Kula (1534m), which we also did. Bjelolasica can be accessed from the other side as well, where abandoned ski resort has been rusting for 10 years now. If snow is sufficient, half overgrown slopes offer world-class skiing.
Another gem is Velebit with many hidden and still unexplored treasures. In the end, this majestic mountan gave us the biggest number of tours. The first tour was from Oltari to Zavižan. After reaching it in bad weather, we tried to ski from Plješivica following a transmission line. That proved to be pure bushwhacking and not so much skiing, but that’s what Velebit is all about. It slaps you on your face and sends you home exhausted, but fulfilled. We have visited Zavižan on few ocassions again, when weather was much nicer. From Krasno to Mali Rajinac is probably the best tour there giving you continuous elevation and steeper options.
The best skiing day was hands down in the area of National park Risnjak. The tour started from Platak parking lot, via Snježnik, Lazac, Mali Risnjak, Snježnik again and unforgettable sunset skiing back to parking. The area reminisces of skiing in the Alps, just a lot smaller, offering everything from steep couloirs to forests. If only winters lasted longer here, with more snow, I personally wouldn’t need to go anywhere else, the mountains are beautiful and peacefull with not much touring traffic.
All good things must come to an end unfortunately. A few days of warm weather melted a meter of Croatian snow faster than butter on a hot pan. It is mid February now, and we are already left with memories and occasional hopes for one more fluffy delivery of joy before spring. The photos are as honest as they can be, shot all on Fujifilm X-Pro3 and 23mmF2 lens in classic negative.
(edit). The wither was mercyful in the end and gave us quite good conditions that lasted until April! A rare treat!.
